The Sweetest Baklava and Turkish Delight in Istanbul

Need to satisfy your desire for sugar? Indulge your tastebuds here.


View Güllüoğlü baklava and Hacı Bekir sweets in a larger map

If you’re in Istanbul for any period of time you must visit two places synonymous with sweets, Gulluoglu and Haci Bekir, to sample a simply outrageous sugar fix.

In a walking tour with a difference, why not start with baklava and vanilla ice cream in the Gulluoglu store in Karakoy,  then shed those newly gained kilojoules by walking directly to the tantalising Turkish delight that await you in the back streets of Eminonu at Haci Bekir?

Gulluoglu has the Finest Baklava in Istanbul

The Gulluoglu family originates from Gaziantep, near the Syrian border, and has recently celebrated sixty years in the business of making sweeter-than-sweet baklava. The store presents a wide array of the famous Middle Eastern delicacy that will send every sugar addict into involuntary spasm.

To find the store, come to the northern side of Galata Bridge in Karakoy. Locate the Karakoy ferry stop and it’s just a hundred-metre walk from there. You only need ask a local to be pointed in the right direction.
The Gulluoglu Karakoy store was recently renovated so that if you don’t overdose on the sugar, the decor will finish off the job. In over-illuminated neo-Ottoman surroundings, the light fittings, mirrors and gleaming white tiles ensure you’ll find your way to the counter easily.

 But Which One Do I Choose?

The range on offer might be a little overwhelming, but since you’ve come for the sugar, don’t worry too much if you end up with crushed pistachio, glazed walnuts, chocolate, or some other combination of ingredients. When you’ve made your selection from the display and carefully memorised its name, dash over to the counter where you’ll order a “porsyon”. Request a topping of vanilla ice-cream to break up all that sugary pastry. And if you must, have a glass of the sickliest-sweet lemonade on the face on the planet.

The cashier will silently hand you a receipt, which you return to the man behind the display counter. Pick your utensils and napkins and grab a comfortable seat outside where the sea breeze is always present. For some reason, inside the store there’s standing room only. Still, given the decor, it’s no surprise people looking at the interior for too long and head outside for a semi-sea view.

And don’t forget. There’s a water dispenser too, for when you’ll need to prise apart your dentures about ten minutes after you take your first mouthful. Feel sated? There’s more to come.

Make Your Pilgrimage to Haci Bekir for Turkish Delight

Haci Bekir has been operating from the same premises in the Eminonu district since 1777. While the company has branches on other parts of the city, the original store is worth a visit for its charming wooden interior.
If you’re going to burn off the kilojoules, cross the Galata Bridge and approach the entrance of the Spice Bazaar. Turn so that the Yeni Cami (New Mosque) is on your left, and walk a hundred metres. When you see a magnificent Ottoman building now housing the Legacy Hotel, look to the opposite side of the street. There it is. Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir, purveyor of the best quality Turkish delight.

Haci Bekir’s is a convenient place to stock up on goodies for loved ones back home. Whether you want your ‘lokum’ flavoured with walnut, almond, cinnamon, ginger, rose or cloves; whether you desire it single or double cooked, you can get single or mixed selections in 200g (1/2lb) to 5kg (11lb) boxes.

Try Before You Buy

Turkish delight is not to everyone’s taste, but if you don’t enjoy what you sample in Haci Bekir’s, it’s guaranteed that you won’t like it anywhere else. But not only is Turkish delight on offer. Why not consider the brightly-hued hard candy or boiled sweets? Maybe sample the halva, that delicious combination of sugar syrup and sesame flavoured with pistachios or cocoa? Or dragees, sugar-coated pistachios and hazelnuts cleverly and colourfully disguised as pebbles?

Whatever you decide, just as in the Gulluoglu store, the staff at Haci Bekir will package your selection ready to place in your luggage.

After visiting Haci Bekir’s, if you suspect you may have consumed your own body weight in sugar, why not get back into shape and cross the Galata Bridge? You can always stop again for more baklava and ice-cream if you suddenly feel hungry.